Frequently Asked Questions

Forget all the sales hype and stick to basics! Today’s ready-made kits are perfectly adequate to start your coarse fishing career – and much cheaper than buying a bit at a time.

In a carp rod, you get what you pay for, buy the best you can afford and go from there.

The longer rods with heavier test curves and faster actions are more suited to long range fishing but they are less forgiving and care must be taken when laying fish a close range if you're not going to pull the hook out.

Shorter rods with lighter test curves and softer actions are a better bet if you are only fishing at close range. A shorter rod is also handy when fishing in a "tight" swim with tree branches, or other obstructions, overhead.

The value of test curve is that it gives you an idea of what weight line to use. Traditionally you multiply the test curve by a factor of 4 to 6 and get the line weight. Better rods have a wider range, just like a fly rod. Test curve does not tell you what the action of the rod is, nor will it tell you how well it will play a fish. Usually the longer the rod, the more range it has. Typical Carp rod will have a 2.25 to 2.5 test curve and be 11 or 12 feet long

There are many reels available for Carp fishing and your choice depends on the style of fishing, most people choose to use a "Fixed Spool Reel" (also known as a "spinning" reel because the arm "spins", not to be confused with the type of fishing known as spinning )this type of reel is very easy to use, the spool is fixed and does not turn, a adjustable clutch is fitted to allow the spool to turn in the situation that the fish really wants to take some line, this is very useful when playing a fish near snags and weed, you need the fish to steer clear and by allowing it to take some line it sometimes helps, the clutch is also useful when the fish is trying to make off and putting a large bend in your rod, you can loosen the clutch slightly so as the fish can take some line but under heavy resistance, therefore the fish will tire quicker.

The fixed spool reel is a great tool to cast with as it is fitted with a "Bale Arm" which guides the line onto the spool but can be lifted away whilst casting, so you can cast with a completely free line without the danger of it getting tangled or snagged up.

When you purchase your line it will usual come on a spool. During the manufacture of the line it is place on the spool under tension (only a small amount but it is there), the spool is then stored until it reaches the shop and finally you. The result is that the line is twisted when you get it, it can't be helped. The problem is that incorrect loading of your reel can result in increasing or reversing this twist and the line will very soon become tangled as it try to revert to the original twist. The trick is too try too preserve the direction of the twist.

On a "Fixed Spool" reel the axis or the spool is at 90 degrees to the rod and the "arm" when looking from behind usually turns to the right (clockwise) when winding in. Place the spool of new line in the table in such a position that line lifts off to the left (anti-clockwise). Now wind on the require amount of line. At first this may seem illogical but what happens is this; When you wind on you are adding a 90 degree clockwise twist. as the line lifts off it is receiving a 90 degrees anti clock wise twist. the net result is that these two cancel each other out and the line now sits on you reel in the same position as it did on the manufacturer's spool You should not load the reel more the 85% as this can also result in tangles. If your reel turns to the left just reverse the manufacturers spool so that it now lifts off to the right (clockwise).

Keep it simple. Bread, sweet-corn, maggots and luncheon meat will catch most species. Experiment and you’ll be surprised what fish will accept.